Naxos: The Underrated Greek Island Giving Mykonos a Run for Its Money

With 6,000 Greek islands to choose from, find out why travel writer Matt Cheok thinks Naxos should be the one not to miss.

6 mins
Written by:
Matt Cheok

With around 6,000 islands dotted across the Greek seas, it’s easy to see how you could spend a lifetime hopping from one to the next and still barely scratch the surface.  

When we first started planning, my partner and I were pretty overwhelmed by the options. We wanted that classic, pristine beach feel with easy access to Athens, minus the crowds. After hours of scrolling through phone maps and digging through blog recommendations, we finally landed on Naxos.

Spoiler alert: it well and truly exceeded all our expectations.

Naxos' town is dotted with waterfront cafes and whitewashed buildings.

Naxos is the largest island in the Cyclades, but unlike its flashier cousins, Mykonos and Santorini, it’s managed to stay mostly under the radar. You’ll still find whitewashed buildings, ancient ruins, and golden beaches, but the island feels honest and grounded in all the right ways, and we reckon it’s a perfect fit for you, Freely readers, planning your next holiday.

Unwind in Agios Prokopios

The pristine waters of Agios Prokopios and Stelida.

We stayed in Agios Prokopios, a cruisy beach town about 20 minutes from the main port city of Naxos. There’s a bus that runs between the two every couple of hours. While the timetable isn’t the most reliable, the bus always shows up in that relaxed island way, saving us the long walk into town. The beauty of staying here is that you’re far enough from the chaos of disembarking ferries and cruise ships, but still close enough to venture into Naxos whenever you feel like it. That said, Agios Prokopios is great on its own with a few small supermarkets, convenience stores, casual seaside places to eat, and sunbeds included if you order something.

The clear waters along Agios Prokopios’s coast are something else, attracting families, couples and solo travellers all looking to relax by the beach. For me, it was the perfect backdrop for daily runs and outdoor workouts. From here, you can follow the coastline past Stelida, a peaceful headland trail that bends around the bay.  

Just a short walk away, Agia Anna offers another beautiful beach opportunity lined with waterside cafes, which we highly endorse. Our favourite spot to watch the sunset is down the stairs in front of Art Cafe. With a Greek flag by the rocks and Mount Stelida looming in the distance, it’s the ideal place to take in the evening light.

Aerial view of sunset at Agios Prokopios.

A Gyros You Won’t Want to Miss

On the island, there are more tavernas than you’ll have time to try, but two we kept going back to were Lefto’s Souvlaki Kebab House and Maro’s Taverna. The first is cheap, classic, and about as close to Greek fast food perfection as you can get. Crispy gyros, juicy kebabs, warm pita and chips that are actually worth eating. The second is a more traditional spot with enormous servings of all the staples, including a solid moussaka. Add a cold Mythos or Alpha beer and you’re sorted.

Greek gyros - fresh meat and veggies served in a warm pita with tzatziki sauce.

Experience the Old Town

Naxos Town is a labyrinth of winding alleys and whitewashed walls where you’ll likely get lost and disoriented within minutes of wandering. It’s full of shops selling handmade ceramics, hand-stitched linen dresses, and cosy cafés tucked away in quiet courtyards shaded by bougainvillea. Two of our favourite places are Papyrus, a hidden bookstore with an amazing selection of second-hand books, and Honey and Cinnamon, serving mouthwatering bites and great coffee in a leafy outdoor courtyard.  

Exploring the labyrinth of white buildings in Naxos' city centre.

While you’re in Naxos, we highly recommend catching the sunset at the Temple of Apollo. This iconic stone doorway stands proudly on a small islet just off the port, offering a breathtaking backdrop as the sun sinks below the horizon.

Sunset views of the Temple of Apollo.

The Wild and Wonderful Sites of Naxos

If you want a beach day with a twist, head to Hawaii Beach or the Alyko Peninsula, where you’ll encounter the ruins of an abandoned hotel now covered in wild, vibrant graffiti. It’s a strange but beautiful mix of crumbling concrete, rogue art with the sound of waves crashing just beyond.  

Incredible murals at the Alynko Peninsula.

We also really enjoyed Mikri Vigla, known for its windsurfing. Even if you don’t take part, it’s fantastic to watch others glide across the water while you hang out with a cold drink at one of the nearby cafes.

Hire a vehicle and venture to the quaint Mikri Vigla beach.

If you have the time, we’d urge you to visit the mountain town of Filoti. Nestled on the slopes of Mount Zas, it offers plenty of authentic tavernas serving homemade dishes, amidst a spectacular backdrop. If you’re facing decision paralysis, we’ve got you covered. You won’t regret a meal at Karra’s Corner.

Getting There

Naxos has an airport with limited flights from Europe, so we’d recommend flying to Athens first and then taking the ferry from Piraeus port. The ferry trip takes about five hours, with plenty of legroom, and watching the Aegean Sea roll by makes the journey particularly enjoyable. Ticket prices usually range from €42 to €138, roughly $70 to $230 AUD, depending on the ferry type and seat class.

Scooter rental is about $25 AUD.

When to Go?

Late May through early October is the ideal time to visit, with June and September the sweet spots. During these months, the weather is warm enough for swimming but cool enough to explore without overheating. We went in early May, and it felt like the island was ours without the crowds, but with more affordable pricing.

Naxos Prices:

  • A meal for two at a taverna costs around €25 – €35, about $42 – $59 AUD.
  • Accommodation varies depending on how fancy you want to go, but you can easily find a comfortable seaside room for €70 – €100 a night, roughly $118 – $168 AUD.  
  • Ferries usually cost between €40 – €60, around $67 – $101 AUD, depending on the speed of the boat and the season.
  • Scooter rental is about €15, quad bike rental €25, and bicycle rental €7, which is around $25, $42 and $12 AUD respectively.

All 📸 from Matt Cheok.

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