Uruguay is sunny, welcoming and has a 40-day Carnaval celebration, as writer Molly Mclaughlin found out.
Often overlooked by travellers in favour of its larger neighbours, Uruguay is relatively easy to travel, welcoming and extremely laid back. What’s more, the country’s national dish of asado pairs beautifully with its famous Tannat wine.
As well as having one of the world’s highest ratios of cows to humans, Uruguay celebrates the world’s longest Carnaval celebration – from mid January to late February.
Influenced by the country’s Indigenous roots, European history and African heritage, this legendary street festival features a Llamadas parade and has a tonne of stages set up throughout Montevideo, where fabulous groups perform music, comedy, dance and more.
Speaking of the capital, Montevideo has an understated charm with a thriving cafe scene, sprawling parks and beaches – and few tourists outside of the summer months.
A couple of hours east, Punta del Este is a popular resort area and the gateway to a string of coastal towns, including the remote hippie hideout of Cabo Polonio.
Uruguay is an ideal spot to spend a week or two, especially if you’re already nearby in Buenos Aires or Southern Brazil. This is especially true if you are a fan of football and/or that sweet treat dulce de leche!
A bit about Uruguayan history
Uruguay has a long and complex story.
Since its colonisation in the 1500s, despite fierce resistance, local Indigenous populations (including Charrúa, Minuane and Guaraní) suffered immense losses at the hands of Spanish, Portuguese, British and Brazilian invaders. Many Indigenous people still fight for justice and to be recognised today.
Uruguay declared independence in 1825 (recognised in 1828), with some of its major traditional parties among the oldest in the world.
Democracy here has mostly been very strong, and the 20th century saw so many leftist currents unite under the Frente Amplio (Broad Front) – but it was then brutally repressed from 1973 after a coup and subsequent dictatorship under which one in 50 Uruguayans were imprisoned.
After tireless activism, 1984 saw the return of democracy. The horrendous legacy of the dictatorship can still be felt, but today Uruguay is classed as the most socially advanced and least unequal country in Latin America.
Abortion and gay marriage have been legal for over a decade thanks to former revolutionary and president José Mujica – who was revered for choosing to ride a bike, live in an old farmhouse and donate 90% of his salary.
Since 2020, the centre-right National Party has been in charge, but the country’s pride in its social progress remains.
The capital, Montevideo
Most visitors to this gem will start their trip in the capital, located on the country’s southern coast. The Ciudad Vieja is the main attraction, with its eclectic architecture and quirky street art.
Here, the Mercado del Puerto is known for its asado – Uruguay’s mouthwatering national dish of fire-grilled meat – while the sounds of candombe and tango dominate the city streets on weekends and evenings.
Of course you’ve got to try mate too! This traditional herbal tea made is made from yerba mate leaves, and it’s an essential part of the social life here, with sharing a common practice.
The neighbourhood around Parque Rodó is popular with students and dotted with restaurants and bars, while nearby Los Pocitos beach is a great spot for a dip.
Thanks to the Rambla de Montevideo – the gorgeous esplanade – you can walk or cycle along the beach for more than 20km, passing by the city’s best beaches.
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