Despite same-sex marriage not being legalised in Japan, Tokyo is home to the world's largest concentration of gay bars 🌈
Japan isn’t the first place that springs to mind when planning an LGBTQIAP-friendly travel itinerary.
Same-sex marriage is yet to be legalised and legal protection for LGBTQIAP+ individuals is limited.
However, the reality of Japan’s LGBTQIAP+ history is nuanced – and it might surprise you to hear that Tokyo is home to the world’s highest concentration of gay bars.
Welcome to the neighbourhood of Ni-chome, Shinjuku Ward.
Here, narrow streets are lined with colourful signage, each door leading to a different world – whether it’s a cozy bar where everyone knows your name, or a pulsing nightclub where Tokyo’s most eclectic crowds gather to dance the night away.
You might be wondering, How did this place come about? And is it safe to be openly gay here?
Actually, historically speaking, homosexual relations in Japan were widespread and even celebrated back in the Edo period (1603-1868), especially relationships between mentors and apprentices in samurai and monk classes.
It wasn’t until Western ideals began to influence Japanese society in the 19th century that same-sex relationships became taboo.
As for Ni-chome, while it used to form a part of the red-light district, it began to emerge as a gathering spot for Tokyo’s gay community during the American Occupation following World War II. Gay tea shops and bars began to open from the late 1940s.
These early spaces were more than just places to grab a drink – they were safe havens where the LGBTQIAP+ community could gather, socialise, and begin to carve out a space for themselves in a society that often relegated them to the shadows.
As Tokyo’s red-light districts began to decline in the late 1950s, Ni-chome found new life as a centre for LGBTQIAP+ culture.
The neighborhood’s transformation continued through the following decades, with the 1970s and 1980s marking significant milestones in Japan’s LGBTQIAP+ history. Ni-chome became a hub for activism and support, hosting the country’s first AIDS candlelight vigil and later, its first pride parade.
Today, while the LGBTQIAP+ community in Japan continues to face struggles, public attitudes are becoming more accepting, and cities such as Tokyo are even beginning to offer partnership certificates to same-sex couples.
While public displays of affection between any combination of genders are uncommon in Japan, and to gel with the culture, it’s more appropriate to be discreet, as an LGBTQIAP+ traveller, you’re unlikely to encounter any hostility in the country.
Japanese folk are culturally non-confrontational in the first place, and speaking openly about your sexuality is unlikely to be a problem. But moreover, venturing into Ni-chome will see you not merely tolerated, but welcomed with open arms!
People here are extremely open, and with a large foreigner community, it’s also easier to mix and mingle between nationalities and make Japanese friends.
While Ni-chome sports a diverse range of venues, here are my recommended spots for newbies to the area.
This bar/club is a favourite due to its inclusive vibe. The downside of Ni-chome is that most venues still cater to gay men – on the other hand, Arty Farty welcomes perhaps the most diverse crowd in the district. One can’t forego mentioning their epic dance floor, with music ranging from pop hits to electronic beats. It’s also an easy spot to make new friends. Even better, there is no cover charge – you just need to buy a drink to get in.
Dragon Men is one of Ni-chome’s more popular gay venues, often hosting DJ events with topless male dancers. With its stylish decor and upbeat vibe, this bar is popular for both its lively weekends and more relaxed weeknights. The music varies from house to pop, and the bar is known for its well-crafted cocktails. They have a happy hour from 6-9pm, and offer all-you-can-drink for 2000 yen.
Gold Finger stands out as one of the few lesbian bars in Ni-chome, offering a welcoming space for women in Tokyo’s LGBTIQAP+ community. The bar has a laid-back, cozy atmosphere, with friendly staff and regular themed events that draw a loyal crowd. On the first Saturday of every month, the bar hosts a women-only night, which is particularly popular (warning – it can get crowded!). There's generally no cover charge, but events might have a small fee.
Campy! is owned by the famous Japanese drag queen Bourbonne, and is as flamboyant as its name suggests. Don’t be surprised if the drag queens working there approach you for a lively interaction in limited English. They host drag performances and karaoke. There's usually no cover charge, but you will be expected to keep buying drinks to stay there.
• Note that most bars and clubs in Japan have a cover charge: this sometimes but not always includes drinks. If you want to avoid a costly night, it might do to research and plan out which venues tovisit before heading out.
• Some bars are only for certain genders, so don’t be offended if you’re turned down entry.
• Some bars are Japanese-only. Although this is based more on language barriers and cultural differences than race, it’s unfortunately still a thing in some places in Japan. Unless you speak enough Japanese to hold a conversation down, avoid these venues.
• Compared to some countries, you might find that Japanese nightlife starts late. Avoid heading out too early (aim for 9pm at the earliest) to ensure to get in on the best atmosphere. Weekends are generally the busiest and have the most exciting party atmosphere, although exploring at different times and even checking out gay cafes during the day can be a great time.
Whichever venue you wind up at, visiting Ni-chome is bound to be a unique experience of engaging with Tokyo’s LGBTIQAP+ community. As you explore, remember that Ni-chome is more than just a nightlife destination – it’s a living, breathing symbol of the LGBTIQAP+ community’s resilience and creativity.
Hero image 📸 Erika Lu
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