Despite same-sex marriage not being legalised in Japan, Tokyo is home to the world's largest concentration of gay bars 🌈
Japan isn’t the first place that springs to mind when planning an LGBTQIAP-friendly travel itinerary.
Same-sex marriage is yet to be legalised and legal protection for LGBTQIAP+ individuals is limited.
However, the reality of Japan’s LGBTQIAP+ history is nuanced – and it might surprise you to hear that Tokyo is home to the world’s highest concentration of gay bars.
Welcome to the neighbourhood of Ni-chome, Shinjuku Ward.
Here, narrow streets are lined with colourful signage, each door leading to a different world – whether it’s a cozy bar where everyone knows your name, or a pulsing nightclub where Tokyo’s most eclectic crowds gather to dance the night away.
You might be wondering, How did this place come about? And is it safe to be openly gay here?
Actually, historically speaking, homosexual relations in Japan were widespread and even celebrated back in the Edo period (1603-1868), especially relationships between mentors and apprentices in samurai and monk classes.
It wasn’t until Western ideals began to influence Japanese society in the 19th century that same-sex relationships became taboo.
As for Ni-chome, while it used to form a part of the red-light district, it began to emerge as a gathering spot for Tokyo’s gay community during the American Occupation following World War II. Gay tea shops and bars began to open from the late 1940s.
These early spaces were more than just places to grab a drink – they were safe havens where the LGBTQIAP+ community could gather, socialise, and begin to carve out a space for themselves in a society that often relegated them to the shadows.
As Tokyo’s red-light districts began to decline in the late 1950s, Ni-chome found new life as a centre for LGBTQIAP+ culture.
The neighborhood’s transformation continued through the following decades, with the 1970s and 1980s marking significant milestones in Japan’s LGBTQIAP+ history. Ni-chome became a hub for activism and support, hosting the country’s first AIDS candlelight vigil and later, its first pride parade.
Today, while the LGBTQIAP+ community in Japan continues to face struggles, public attitudes are becoming more accepting, and cities such as Tokyo are even beginning to offer partnership certificates to same-sex couples.
