Dodge the crowds and treat yourself to one of the Mediterranean's best-kept secrets! 💎
Wearing its history on its sleeve (the country still echoes with reminders of its former dictatorship – like the five-floor underground palace in Tirana that has been turned into an epic museum and gallery), and teeming with picturesque beaches and hikes, Albania is quickly emerging as one of Europe's fastest-growing travel destinations – minus the crowds of the likes of the Greek islands.
Lots of major cities will fly directly into the capital, Tirana, but considering Albania is bordered by other Balkans favourites – Montenegro and Kosovo in the north, Macedonia in the east and Greece in the south, going overland from any of these countries is also an intrepid, sustainable and scenically beautiful way to get into the country.
The local bus system can be an absolute minefield to understand and purchase tickets for, which can rarely be done in advance – but once you’re on your way, the buses are roomy and comfortable, offering dramatic views of the coastline on one side and sparsely forested mountains on the other, with a classic dispersion of bunkers along the road.
The height of summer is a particularly spicy time to visit the country, as cities in the south can reach the high thirties. Though more northern areas such as the capital cruise in the more leisurely low thirties, the distance from the capital to any coast means the climate at this time can feel a bit stifling. Visiting either side of summer is what we recommend to be comfortable enough to enjoy being outside, as well as to indulge into the warm and hearty stews, meats and pastries on offer.
From the end of WWII to the late 80s, a communist dictator by the name of Hoxha ruled Albania – his reign only ceasing with his death. While in power, Hoxha’s government was unrelenting in their commitment to a communist dictatorship, fiercely isolating Albania from its neighbours and driving the country into fear and poverty. Hoxha was either so paranoid about foreign invasion or so intent on instilling fear in his people that he commandeered upwards of 750,000 bunkers to be built around the country, many of which are still in place today.
As communist regimes in the region began to break down – among them Yugoslavia, which split into the many countries we know by name today between 1990 and 1992 – new democratic political parties and social forces began to emerge in Albania, reflecting the mindset of Albanian people. Today, the country is for the most part politically stable, and hopes to join the European Union once it meets all the necessary conditions.
Many relics of Hoxha’s regime still remain in Albania – meaning the country echoes with reminders of its former dictatorship, with its oppressive history written all over the architecture and monuments. This makes Albania a fascinating place to travel to gain a deeper understanding of the impact the communist hold on Southeast Europe had on its people, economy, art and architecture.
Tirana – Albania’s fascinating capital – is a good starting point for getting up close to the relics of Hoxha’s regime. Here you can visit the rather uninspiring hunk of concrete that is the Pyramid of Tirana, which was designed by the dictator’s daughter to represent and honour the former leader. After Hoxha’s death, the pyramid stayed put, but Albanians created art on its facade and young people used its steep walls as a playground. It remains a hangout spot for locals and tourists alike – especially skaters – and last year, a Dutch artist was given the green light to revamp it.
In Tirana, you can also visit Bunk’Art – the five-floor underground palace that has been converted into a museum and art gallery that takes visitors through the grim history of communist Albania. Tirana’s cafe culture is also definitely worth writing home about (order a kafe turke and thank us later), as is its cheap restaurant scene, green parks and excellent museums.
Towns of Shkodër in the north and Gjirokaster further south are also cultural hubs, and have more museums and historical relics for those who want to take a deep dive into Albania’s past.
Going down along the coastline in Albania is a breeze, and it takes only a few hours from the capital to reach the stunning coastal town of Vlorë and other popular beachside spots, including Himarë and Sarandë. These glorious towns and their surrounds seriously do rival the landscapes of Italy’s Amalfi, and the water is warm and crystal clear.
Sarandë is actually a perfect stop to situate yourself in, as it’s a ripper base to take day trops from – such as to the Blue Eye, a swimmable waterhole that plunges so deep and has pressure so intense that the middle drop resembles a pupil. The beachside village of Ksamil – with its sandy rather than pebbly shores – isn’t far either, and then you’re only an hour via ferry to the Greek island of Corfu!
Bovilla Lake is a reservoir that provides Tirana with most of its drinking water, but also serves as an outlandishly beautiful and moderately strenuous day hike reachable from the capital. You can trek the two-hour round trip up to Mt Gamti for panoramic views of the alpine-esque surrounds of the natural turquoise body of water.
The tiny town of Theth, which is about an hour-and-a-half from Shkodër, is literally only open in the summer months, as the ice in winter makes the terrain untraversable. Only a handful of people live in and operate the town during summer, which serves as a starting point to explore the Albanian Alps and hikes in the north. The walk from Theth to the town of Valbona is known as one of the best day hikes in Albania, but it does require some levels of fitness and grip on your boots, or at least some tenacity!
Albania’s location on the Mediterranean sea means the cuisine favours ingredients that are typical of the diet that has claims to being one of the healthiest – and most scrumptious – across the world. Traditional Albanian meals favour fruits, vegetables and fish, which makes it an easy place to find delicious meals for vegetarians and pescatarians alike. Hearty herbed stews stacked with onion served with humbly dressed salads are typical for main meals.
Like many regions in the Balkans, the buttery and satiating byrek reigns as a bakery favourite. Thin layers of flaky filo pastry surround a variety of fillings – minced sausage, spinach, pumpkin, or spiced beef. Rolled cylindrically and folded up into a circle, a byrek can be divided into segments to share – but trust us, you won’t want to!
The national dish of Albania is tavë kosi: a dish consisting of herbed, tender lamb and rice topped with yoghurt that’s baked into something resembling a moussaka. Other Balkans countries have their own versions of the meal, with Turkey even naming theirs Elbasan tave after the Albanian city of Elbasan: so you know the country must be doing something right!
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