Matt Cheok shows us why this remote travel destination filled with incredible landscapes and welcoming people is well worth visiting 🇹🇯
"Come with us to eat," a Tajik local offers me with a smile, even though we’ve literally just met.
With my backpack digging into my shoulders, I pause to catch my breath, having just ascended 300 steps to reach the imposing Bust of Lenin monument.
From this kind gesture, I soon find myself sharing a feast of shashlik (grilled meat), salad,and countless cups of chai (tea) with seven of his friends. Afterwards, they treat me to a personal town tour, finishing up at the ancient fortress to watch the sunset.
These random acts of kindness perfectly encapsulate the generosity I encountered throughout Tajikistan and have fueled countless stories I've shared since.
With over 93% of the country covered by mountains, Tajikistan is a remote paradise.
In the north of the country, the Fann Mountains and its glacial lakes are among the most otherworldly and isolated landscapes you'll ever experience. Even in peak season, the area remains remarkably uncrowded, allowing you to enjoy the trails in relative solitude.
Here's our guide to making the most of your adventure.
Ride-sharing apps aren’t common in Tajikistan. Locals rely on marshrutkas or taxis for city travel and shared taxis for longer journeys. Renting a car is generally not recommended due to challenging road conditions and potential hazards for unfamiliar drivers.
Australian citizens can enter Tajikistan once and stay for up to 30 days without a visa (though citizens of other countries may have different requirements).
If you plan on visiting for more than 10 days, regardless of your visa status, you must register at the OVIR office (Department of Visas and Registration) within 10 working days of arrival.
While Tajikistan might not be the most conventional holiday destination, and getting there might require some effort, trust us, the journey is more than worth it.
Cash is king in Tajikistan, as card payments are rarely available. The local currency is the Tajikistani Somoni (TJS), but it's also wise to carry some American dollars for easy exchange.
Don’t be surprised if you receive small packets of Mentos (yes, the chewy mints) for change, as some shops and restaurants may be short on coins.
Phone service and internet are very limited outside of major towns. While T-Cell and Megafon have the best coverage, they are still unreliable, especially when hiking. There is no connectivity once you venture into the mountains, so be prepared to unplug.
While Tajik is the official language, learning some basic Russian phrases is most practical for navigating Tajikistan and Central Asia. While not widely spoken in Tajikistan, you're most likely to encounter English speakers in larger cities, especially among younger people.
Hikers are best served visiting between June and September, as earlier in the spring, many trails might still be inaccessible due to snow (but keep in mind the cities become unbearably hot, limiting sightseeing and activities to the early morning and evening).
The shoulder seasons of autumn (September to October) and spring (April to June) present the most pleasant temperatures and conditions for general sightseeing.
Panjakent is the perfect location to recover between hikes, store extra luggage while trekking, and restock supplies like gas and food. It has a large bazaar, plenty of eateries, and the excellent Salom Hostel.
With its fantastic garden and family-run accommodation, it’s a great place to meet fellow travellers and get up-to-date hiking advice.
With its well-maintained paths and plentiful swimming opportunities, the Haft kul (Seven Lakes) trail offers a gentle introduction to Tajikistan's mountainous terrain.
Most travellers reach the trailhead at Shing village by taking a marshrutka (shared minibus/van) from the bazaar in Panjakent or by arranging a shared taxi with other hikers.
While visiting on a day trip is possible, we highly recommend spending at least one night in this beautiful region.
If you're not equipped for camping, consider staying at the Najmiddin homestay near the Fourth Lake. For those with camping gear, the Seventh Lake is a fantastic place to set up shop and stargaze on a clear evening.
The four-day trek from Artuch to Alauddin Lake presents magical views at every turn. You’ll want to grab the daily marshrutka from Panjakent to Artuch, then hike approximately five hours to Kulikalon Lake for your first night's camp.
Day 2 involves a shorter, flatter two-hour hike to Dushokha Lake, where you'll be greeted by an impressive mountain wall that rises majestically directly above it.
On Day 3, you’ll tackle the steep ascent to Alauddin Pass, followed by an equally challenging descent to Alauddin Lake (hiking poles are highly recommended). The final day is dedicated to returning from Alauddin Lake to the M34 highway, where you can catch a ride back to Panjakent.
For those who would rather go on day hikes, consider staying at Alphabet Artuch Camp. It offers a selection of tents, basic room accommodation, and meals.
Khujand's dramatic mountain setting and friendly locals have earned it a top spot on our list of favourite border towns.
During the day, make sure to visit Panjshanbe Bazaar, with its striking red interior and bustling aisles lined with vendors. The somsas (savoury meat pastries) are particularly good, making it a fantastic lunchtime spot with a lively atmosphere.
