Borneo is one of the only places in the world where you can see orangutans in the wild, and Nirvana had a mama and baby walk right by her!
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Borneo had long floated in my imagination as a land of remote jungles, mystical rainforests and orangutans swinging wild and free. That image might have been true 30 years ago – but like anywhere magical, the effects of tourism are undeniable.
Still, there are pockets that retain a sense of wildness and wonder, and a week is just enough time to get a taste.
Borneo is the third-largest island in the world, shared between three countries: Indonesia, Malaysia, and the small nation of Brunei.
Each part offers something different: Malaysia for accessible adventure and infrastructure; Brunei for quiet luxe and Islamic architecture; and Indonesian Kalimantan for raw, rugged rainforest exploration that requires more time and grit.
The gateway to Malaysian Borneo is Kota Kinabalu (KK), the capital of Sabah, a modern, well-organised city with a number of high-end hotels and shopping malls. To get there, take an international flight to Kuala Lumpur, followed by a 2.5-hour domestic flight to KK.
There are over 25 flights a day between the two cities making it very convenient.
From KK, you can fly to other regions within Sabah or to Sarawak, where you will find more off-the-grid jungle experiences and orangutan sightings – like Danum Valley, Deramakot Forest Reserve, and Batang Ai National Park.
KK might be a city, but just a 20-minute boat ride away you will find a trio of idyllic islands – Manukan, Mamutik, and Sapi – that offer soft white sands, clear turquoise water, and well-kept facilities.
Manukan Island was my favourite, as it was spacious, shaded by tall trees, and not overly crowded despite the stream of visitors. The beach here is stunning: baby-blue waters and soft, white sand.
There’s a charming guesthouse on the island, and facilities including bathrooms and showers. Activities include snorkelling and parasailing if you’re feeling adventurous.
Mamutik is smaller and felt more cramped – though that could have been the Sunday afternoon timing. Still, it had beautiful water, shaded picnic spots, and a local restaurant with delicious curries.
Sapi is similar in size and feel to Mamutik – so if you are short on time, I would recommend prioritising Manukan.
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Borneo is one of the only places in the world where you can see orangutans in the wild, and Sepilok is the most accessible site for this. I took a morning flight from KK to Sandakan, landing at 10 AM – though in hindsight, the 6 AM flight would have let me catch the first orangutan feeding session at 10.
The sanctuary, established in 1964, is the world’s first orangutan rehabilitation centre. Set in the lush Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve, it provides a safe haven for orphaned and injured orangutans. Around 60–80 roam freely in the area.
The sanctuary is well-organised, with wooden boardwalks leading into the rainforest. Visitors cannot go far into the jungle, but the walk still feels immersive, surrounded by dense greenery and the sounds of the forest.
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There are two daily feedings: 10 AM and 3 PM, when semi-wild orangutans emerge from the forest to grab fruit at the platforms. I was incredibly lucky to witness a beautiful mother orangutan and her baby cross the path right in front of me. It was one of those surreal travel moments you never forget.
From 12–2 PM, the sanctuary closes, so I headed next door to the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre. These are the world’s smallest bears – and some of the cutest – often seen napping in trees or lumbering through the bush.
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