Borneo is one of the only places in the world where you can see orangutans in the wild, and Nirvana had a mama and baby walk right by her!
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Borneo had long floated in my imagination as a land of remote jungles, mystical rainforests and orangutans swinging wild and free. That image might have been true 30 years ago – but like anywhere magical, the effects of tourism are undeniable.
Still, there are pockets that retain a sense of wildness and wonder, and a week is just enough time to get a taste.
Borneo is the third-largest island in the world, shared between three countries: Indonesia, Malaysia, and the small nation of Brunei.
Each part offers something different: Malaysia for accessible adventure and infrastructure; Brunei for quiet luxe and Islamic architecture; and Indonesian Kalimantan for raw, rugged rainforest exploration that requires more time and grit.
The gateway to Malaysian Borneo is Kota Kinabalu (KK), the capital of Sabah, a modern, well-organised city with a number of high-end hotels and shopping malls. To get there, take an international flight to Kuala Lumpur, followed by a 2.5-hour domestic flight to KK.
There are over 25 flights a day between the two cities making it very convenient.
From KK, you can fly to other regions within Sabah or to Sarawak, where you will find more off-the-grid jungle experiences and orangutan sightings – like Danum Valley, Deramakot Forest Reserve, and Batang Ai National Park.
KK might be a city, but just a 20-minute boat ride away you will find a trio of idyllic islands – Manukan, Mamutik, and Sapi – that offer soft white sands, clear turquoise water, and well-kept facilities.
Manukan Island was my favourite, as it was spacious, shaded by tall trees, and not overly crowded despite the stream of visitors. The beach here is stunning: baby-blue waters and soft, white sand.
There’s a charming guesthouse on the island, and facilities including bathrooms and showers. Activities include snorkelling and parasailing if you’re feeling adventurous.
Mamutik is smaller and felt more cramped – though that could have been the Sunday afternoon timing. Still, it had beautiful water, shaded picnic spots, and a local restaurant with delicious curries.
Sapi is similar in size and feel to Mamutik – so if you are short on time, I would recommend prioritising Manukan.
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Borneo is one of the only places in the world where you can see orangutans in the wild, and Sepilok is the most accessible site for this. I took a morning flight from KK to Sandakan, landing at 10 AM – though in hindsight, the 6 AM flight would have let me catch the first orangutan feeding session at 10.
The sanctuary, established in 1964, is the world’s first orangutan rehabilitation centre. Set in the lush Kabili-Sepilok Forest Reserve, it provides a safe haven for orphaned and injured orangutans. Around 60–80 roam freely in the area.
The sanctuary is well-organised, with wooden boardwalks leading into the rainforest. Visitors cannot go far into the jungle, but the walk still feels immersive, surrounded by dense greenery and the sounds of the forest.
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There are two daily feedings: 10 AM and 3 PM, when semi-wild orangutans emerge from the forest to grab fruit at the platforms. I was incredibly lucky to witness a beautiful mother orangutan and her baby cross the path right in front of me. It was one of those surreal travel moments you never forget.
From 12–2 PM, the sanctuary closes, so I headed next door to the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre. These are the world’s smallest bears – and some of the cutest – often seen napping in trees or lumbering through the bush.
The Kinabatangan river cruise is considered one of the highlights of Borneo; however, due to contracting food poisoning, I had to cancel my trip.
My friend Jess went on without me and described it as the most special experience of her trip: cruising past proboscis monkeys, orangutans, saltwater crocodiles, hornbills and pygmy elephants in the wild. These animals are termed ‘the Borneo 5’.
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Tours are offered of various lengths, starting from two days/one night, and of course the longer you stay, the more chances you have of spotting the spectacular wildlife.
Accommodation is offered in various jungle lodges with similar facilities and packages – meals, hikes and multiple cruises a day.
Just a 30-minute taxi ride from KK, Mari Mari Cultural Village offers a recreated glimpse into the traditions of Borneo’s many Indigenous communities. It is not a living village, but a thoughtfully crafted space set amongst forestland with clear rivers running through.
The attention to detail is impressive: from the food and tools to the traditional homes and dances. I was especially intrigued by the legend of the Murut tribe, infamous for being head-hunters. The dance performance was striking, and the buffet lunch was generous and delicious.
Mari Mari is touristy and attracts large groups; however, I believe it is more respectful to visit a dedicated cultural centre than to intrude on living communities for a couple of hours, snapping photos of people’s lives. This is a way to learn and appreciate the local culture without peering too intrusively.
I spent the last day of my trip soaking up KK’s easy charm. You can head to the riverside for sunset views and a cold drink, then dive into night markets that are overflowing with fresh seafood – giant prawns, whole crabs, squid, lobster – for pocket-change prices. Four crabs for $5 AUD? Give me 20.
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The markets I recommend are
I ended the evening with my last blissful foot massage (1 hour for $15 AUD!) and called it a perfect week.
If you enjoy hiking, you can’t miss Mount Kinabalu. At 4,095 metres, it is the highest climbable peak in Southeast Asia.
A two-day trek through shifting landscapes: tropical jungle at the base, mossy forest halfway, and barren granite will take you to the top. Most hikers overnight at Laban Rata and summit before dawn to catch sunrise above the clouds. You will need to book ahead as permits, a guide, and lodging are mandatory.
Malaysian Borneo offers a rare combination: wild nature, modern comforts, culture, and affordability. It is perfect for travellers looking for something just a little more adventurous, without completely roughing it.
If you’ve been craving for a destination that is still off the beaten track, consider this your sign.
Hero images 📸 Nirvana Bhandary
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